In our desire to be virtuous, we may forget that vegetables are an excellent canvas for creamy delicious flavors. A classic gratin is simple to throw together, and, in the oven with cream, a bit of cheese, and maybe a crispy panko topping, vegetables turn supple, velvety, and wonderfully delicious.
And since they're so rich and wonderful, gratins can be a good place to embrace vegetables you'd otherwise pass by. Celery root, rutabagas, parsnips, radishes (especially black radishes), and turnips are all wonderful. Alongside, you can tuck leeks, as I did here, or add quartered or pearl onions. Come spring, the same dish can be made with tender Hakurei turnips (and their greens) and spring onions. Brassicas do well here, too. Consider cauliflower or broccoli sliced into thin florets, hardy greens sliced into thin ribbons, or thin cabbage wedges.
If you're just not into all the knobby winter roots, you can absolutely swap potatoes for turnips.
Vegetable gratin is the kind of recipe to make a few times, and then commit to memory and make your own. Once you have a feel for it, it's a simple, but really lovely dish to have in your repertoire.
Leek and Turnip Gratin
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