Right Now: Chilled Asparagus Salad

Spring eating, at last

Asparagus season is creeping up the West Coast. Here in the East, I imagine the perennial sprouts just pushing through the recently thawed earth. But even if it’s not quite in season, we can all be forgiven for rushing spring just a little.

This chilled asparagus salad is just right for early spring, or maybe an Easter spread. It has all the best earthy, green, punchy flavors that make spring eating so delightful. The asparagus is cooked as simply as possible. The topping – a mix of red onion, lemon zest and juice, a splash of vinegar, a drizzle of olive oil, and a pinch each salt and pepper – lands somewhere between a relish and a vinaigrette.

Asparagus range in size from spindly to stout. I’ve heard that this is based on the age of the plant and not the age of the stalk, but I’m dubious. Toward the end of the season, the stout ones can get tough on the outside and do well with a very light peel. But now, asparagus is fresh and new! It just needs a good swish in a sink filled with cold water to dislodge any sand and for you to snap the woody ends off somewhere between a third and a quarter of the way down.

Once that’s done, steam the stalks over boiling water for no more than 1 - 2 minutes (depending on size), and immerse in ice water. Blot dry, chill the asparagus, and top with the onion mixture just before serving. 

Cold Asparagus Salad with Red Onion Relish