Right Now: A Spring Salad

To make again and again

After the rigors of winter cooking, I want the fewest possible steps between me and a platter of vegetables. Also, I’m re-reading Tamar Adler’s perfect book An Everlasting Meal in anticipation of her new cookbook. She’s the master of simplicity – both prose and recipes – and has me convinced that anyone can eat like a king, as long as they have enough stale bread and olive oil on hand. 

This salad features stale bread and olive oil in the form of crispy torn bits of crouton. But also a peppery mix of arugula from the garden and radishes from the farmers market, dressed lightly in lemon, olive oil, and salt, and piled atop creamy swooshes of whipped chèvre.

Consider this recipe a key element of excellent warm weather eating. It’s hard to think of a seasonal vegetable that wouldn't be improved by being piled on top of creamy chèvre. I plan to use this approach all summer long with greens, asparagus, carrots, beets, fennel, onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini, squash, even berries. Some in this list would be best with a quick sear, but you get the idea. Just make sure you have plenty of stale bread and olive oil to see you through. (Stash a few slices in the freezer so you’ll never be without the perfect crouton.)

Arugula and Radish Salad with Whipped Chèvre

I like my radishes sliced thin and even on a mandoline. A bit of lemon and salt takes the edge off the spice and softens them a bit, but if you wait too long, they’ll release their water and go limp. The radishes will still look and taste fine, but I find it kind of sad, so try to eat them quickly, if you can. 

Unlike the radishes, the whipped chèvre can absolutely be made ahead, but doesn’t have to be. The recipe is a variation on one I shared on Brooklyn Supper. I like it here as the base for a salad, but it’s also a lovely dip. Add herbs, more olive oil, or seared chiles to punch it up.

Makes: 6 generous servings

Whipped Chèvre

• 5 ounces chèvre, room temperature

• 6 tablespoons plain Greek yogurt

• Grated zest of 1 lemon plus 2 tablespoons juice

• 1 clove garlic, smashed, peeled, and minced

• 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes

• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper, plus more for finishing

• 1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste

• 2 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, for serving

Croutons

• 4 slices crusty bread or sourdough, torn into bite-sized pieces

• 3 tablespoons olive oil

• Sea salt for sprinkling

Salad

• 1 bunch mixed radishes and hakurei turnips with greens

• 4 loosely packed cups arugula leaves

• Extra virgin olive oil

• Lemon juice

• Salt

• 1/2 cup minced parsley, plus more for garnish

• 1/4 cup mint leaves, chopped

• 2 tablespoons dill, chopped

Directions

1. In the bowl of a food processor, pulse to combine the chèvre, yogurt, zest and juice, garlic, red and black pepper, and salt. With food processor running, add the olive oil and process until smooth. Taste and add more salt, lemon, or olive oil as needed. The whipped chèvre can be made up to three days ahead of time and stored in the fridge. Let it come to room temperature for 30 minutes before serving. 

2. To make the croutons, preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss the torn bread with olive oil and a pinch of salt. Bake 10 - 12 minutes, or until croutons are golden and crisp, tossing once halfway through. Set aside to cool. 

3. Rinse and slice the radishes. The greens can be washed and tossed with the salad, but I prefer radish greens cooked, so consider saving them for another use. Toss the sliced radishes with a squeeze of lemon, a pinch of salt, and a drizzle of oil. Add the croutons and herbs (saving some herbs for garnish), and toss. 

4. In a separate bowl, toss the arugula with a squeeze of lemon, a pinch of salt, and a drizzle of oil.

5. Spoon the whipped chèvre onto the side of a platter in several swooshes. Arrange the radishes and arugula in alternating layers on the opposite side. Top with reserved herbs, a drizzle of olive oil, and a pinch each salt and pepper. Serve right away.