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Us gardeners need some optimism to plan our summer plots or containers. It’s a skill I might never actually cultivate. My garden planning is plagued by a disbelief that the little seeds I drop in the dirt will turn into anything at all, let alone a giant, food-bearing plant. Apparently, I will never stop cramming way too many plants in my little space. I had several tomato plants I couldn’t even reach last year because I planted two 8-foot sunflower bushes “between” the tomato plants. No matter what experience has taught me, my own lack of imagination prevails.
Whatever plans we have for the summer, we are now firmly in a season that requires belief and optimism. There is still very little in the way of actual spring produce, even after a horribly mild winter (for me in Virginia anyway). But there are gems to be had. Look for overwintered brassicas like collards and kale, new greens like hardy lettuces, arugula, chard, or spicy greens, and maybe spring onions or cultivated chives (or just grab a bunch of wild chives!).
While we wait for the fullness of spring to arrive, here are a few delicious ways to have tough or tender spring greens for supper:
Killed Lettuce Salad with Radishes and Bacon
The ultimate way to make something out of almost nothing, this traditional Appalachian salad is inspired by Ronni Lundy’s recipe in Victuals. It’s made by wilting robust spring springs like arugula, braising, dandelion, or mustard greens, or collards with apple cider vinegar and then tossing it all with bacon grease and crumbled bacon. Add whatever punchy alliums you can find. Use any leftover grease to make Ronni Lundy’s perfect cornbread and you have a perfect spring dinner.
Coconut Milk Braised Greens
Creamy sweet coconut milk takes the tannic edge off of dark leafy greens like collards, chard, kale, or spinach. It also turns braised greens – a dinnertime stalwart in my house – into something less ho hum and more celebratory. Make it yours by layering alliums or aromatic spices like nutmeg, chilies, or cumin. These greens are wonderful with crispy roasted sweet potatoes atop, but you could also use these elements as a jumping off point to create something more your own. This recipe is vegan.
Crispy Smashed Potatoes with Cod and Wild Chive Crème Fraîche
The main thing here is the crispy smashed potatoes, which you will need to boil, smash, and then roast for a good while. After that, though, you’ll just need to slice a lemon, chop some herbs and chives, and broil the fish.
Spring Onion-Chive Pesto Pasta with Shrimp
A quick blanch takes the edge off of the spring onions and chives and makes for a wonderfully creamy pesto. About the shrimp: I only buy frozen wild caught gulf shrimp and find that shell on shrimp are usually the cheapest option. Once I get them home and thaw them, I take the time to devein them. This recipe is from a few years back, and shrimp prices these days make me feel dizzy, so feel free to swap in something else. The broiled cod from above would be nice, as would lots of shredded Parmesan and a crusty piece of bread.
A Couple of Recommendations
I launched this substack this week (!!!) and didn’t get a new recipe up on Brooklyn Supper, so I thought I’d close the post with a few things that I’m enjoying right now:
Victuals
I mentioned it above, but Ronni Lundy’s Appachian foodways cookbooks Victuals is just gorgeous and so much more than a cookbook. It came out several years back, but still has a place of pride on my cookbook shelf. In the book, each ingredient and recipe comes with a good story and a sweeping shot of the mountains. I love the book all year, but especially in spring. Get a copy if you don’t have it already.
Graza Olive Oil
Believe the hype! I recently ordered the Sizzle and Drizzle combo pack, and while I like the sizzle olive oil just fine, I love the drizzle and plan to continue stocking it in my kitchen. It’s perfect for toast, soups, salads, popcorn, or wherever you like to drizzle nutty, vibrant green Spanish olive oil.